He certainly never knew it, but I am quite sure that
Ryszard Kapuscinski, Polish journalist and interpreter of Africa extraordinaire, helped me to get my first job out of grad school. In the guest lecture I gave in a comparative politics class as part of my job interview, I read aloud from one of his books. Yes, I know, it sounds odd. But in talking about the development of the state in Africa, I read Kapuscinski’s description of Idi Amin. “Everywhere he went, it was as if Amin moved the state with him,” he wrote, I read, separating the weight of each word carefully, placing them gently into the ears of the students staring at me. The dean himself also sat in the front row, rapt, and told me later that to him my reading was more like dramatic performance. But it was Kapuscinski’s words that animated the room that day.
For a journalist, Kapuscinski was a freak. He was eloquent, modest, and lived in slums and got robbed with sides of TB and malaria. He was so far off the journalist’s path that, when I first read one of his books, I refused to believe he actually WAS a journalist. He covered the entire continent, loved it, breathed it in, and wasn’t big on talking to government officials. Real people were what mattered. Real people in villages sprinkling the countryside, people without food or reliable income or access to power. A traveling companion of Kapuscinski’s once remarked, “Because people from Europe spend their time here only in the cities and drive along the major roads, they cannot even imagine what our Africa looks like.”
Kapuscinski, however, makes imagining possible:
“More than anything, one is struck by the light. Light everywhere. Brightness everywhere. Everywhere, the sun. Just yesterday, an autumnal London was drenched in rain. The airplane drenched in rain. A cold wind, darkness. But here, from the morning’s earliest moments, the airport is ablaze with sunlight, all of us in sunlight.
In time past, when people wandered the world on foot, rode on horseback, or sailed in ships, the journey itself accustomed them to the change. Images of the each passed ever so slowly before their eyes, the stage revolved in a barely perceptible way. The voyage lasted weeks, months. The traveler had time to grow used to another environment, a different landscape. The climate, too, changed gradually. Before the traveler arrived from a cool Europe to the burning equator, he already had left behind the pleasant warmth of Las Palmas, the heat of Al-Mahara, and the hell of the Cape Verde Islands.
Today, nothing remains of these gradations. Air travel tears us violently out of snow and cold and hurls us that very same day into the blaze of the tropics. Suddenly, still rubbing our eyes, we find ourselves in a humid inferno. We immediately start to sweat. If we’ve come from Europe in the wintertime, we discard overcoats, peel off sweaters. It’s the first gesture of initiation we, the people of the North, perform upon arrival in Africa.”
-Ryszard Kapuscinski
First three paragraphs of “The Shadow of the Sun”