visas and waiting and henna

By the time I noticed that everyone but me had a big purple dot stuck on their boarding passes, I was almost to the front of the line. So I handed mine to the gate attendant, already knowing this wasn't going to go well. But how-not-well I could not have guessed.

"Show me visa," she demanded.  I opened my passport to the page with my Ethiopian visa. "For Djibouti," she corrected.

"I don't need one, I can get it at the airport, I'm an American," I said, geturing at my passport, confused. Let it also be noted that I think this is the first time I have ever said to anyone while traveling, in a situation in which I was being questioned, "I'm an American" like it was an answer for something. And I would love for it to be the last.

"Do you have an ID?" she asked. This was a odd question, I thought, since I had handed her my passport already, which one could consider the mother of all IDs.

"This is my passport, so, what do you mean?" I asked her.

"Military ID," she said.

Military? What alternate universe had the stairs from the boarding area led me down into?

"Nooo," I replied, waiting, straining at the impulse to say something sarcastic.

"Wait," she instructed, pointing to her left, as she reached behind me for the next passenger's boarding pass.

"I don't understand, I don't need a visa, I talked to my friend there yesterday, and I can get a tourist visa on arrival," I said, tasting the irritation rising.

"No more, no more visa at airport, go upstairs and talk to supervisor," she said curtly.

I pushed my way back up against the line of passengers coming down to board the bus to the plane. Up at the gate, I found a dozen people crowded around the desk, voices loud and angry in at least three different languages. I waited. An older man waving a Belgian passport started talking to me through the gap of his four missing front teeth from both the top and bottom of his mouth. That, and the thickness of his French accent, made it a bit difficult to follow the particularities. But I did catch bits of "sheeet" and "fooocking" and other spit-punctuated niceties with which I wholeheartedly agreed.

When my turn finally arrived, I did the same visa-ID-invitationletter-thislooksreallybadforyou dance with the man behind the desk. Finally, I said, "I just want to go as a tourist for ten days. Ten. Days. And I have a return ticket," I stated plainly.

"Show me," he replied. I handed it over. He smiled and stuck a big fat purple circle on my boarding pass. Back down the stairs I went, wondering, what the hell was all that about?

It took all of 55 minutes to fly to Djibouti City. On arrival, we were herded into the terminal to wait. There was a line specifically for visitors with no visas, and it was significant. So much for the no-visa-at-the-airport issue. Once again I declined to shove my way to the front and waited. Eventually I handed my arrival form and passport to the man in the glass box and showed him my return ticket. He nodded, seeming to indicate no problem, and took my form and passport to the visa in a stack of others to the issuing office behind me.

I waited.

Standing outside the little office, I started chatting with a guy probably about ten years younger than me who said he was born in Djibouti but grew up in the UK. "I don't even like coming here, honestly, it is just such a mess," he said. I related my growing love of Botswana's relative ease of navigability compared to the last weeks in Ethiopia. We bonded. We waited. We kept advising the Yemeni guy standing nearby that he should really not try to bolt into the visa office every time the door opened but that he, too, should just. Wait.

Finally the three of us were admitted to the office, the last three remaining people from the flight. Apparently the Yemeni guy had been in China and this seemed to be some kind of issue. He was pretty jittery, that guy. And the official issuing the visas just could not figure out what to do about me.

"What are you doing in Djibouti?" he asked me when my turn finally arrived, his tone tilting towards accusatory but almost more puzzled than anything. I explained that I just wanted to visit, that I had a friend here and that I just wanted to be a tourist for ten days. He asked for the address where I would stay, which I had already written on the form in front of him. He asked me how I knew my friend. I said we had studied together in the US.  I showed him my return ticket. I showed him Ladan's email and contact information. I showed him her husband's contact information. He made a call. I sat. And waited.

Another officer came to the door of the small office. "Miss Rashelle Demoss?" he asked. I had a feeling.

"Yes," I said calmly. "Is Ladan looking for me outside?"

She was. In fact, they had started to turn out the lights in the airport and her concern led her to ask one of the officers outside to go and see if I was still in there. And there I was.

Remarkably, the officer returned momentarily with Ladan and her two daughters in tow. I could not believe that they had just let her in, but I am also familiar with her powers of persuasion. The girls were so excited to see me and so affectionate that they guy behind the desk asked if they were mine. Ilwaad, who is approaching four, hugged me repeatedly. Then she hugged the guy behind the desk. I grinned and kept quiet.

The conversations switched to Somali. It seemed that he then began asking Ladan everything that he had already asked me. More phone calls were made. More conversation ensued. And I waited.

Finally, at a moment that followed nothing in particular, I saw him insert a blank visa sticker into the printer, wait for it to slide out the top, and adhere my permission to my passport. They unlocked the doors to let us out after picking up my backpack, and away we went.

The afternoon was the perfect antidote to annoyance. We sank into the couches in Ladan's sitting room, sipping cool hibiscus flower juice and pulling the curtains over the sunny windows to help keep the air conditioning inside (it is a lot freaking hotter in Djibouti than it was in Ethiopia). The girls giggled and played. We talked. Sitting down to lunch, Mariam, who is seven, asked me, "If you are in our family, then why are you a different color than me?"

We had told the girls to call me Auntie, which while relatively normal with many of my friends' kids, is apparently not usual for them. So I tried to explain to Mariam about kinds of family, about how we all have the family into which we are born, the one that we are given. But sometimes when we are really lucky, when we live our lives we find other people who feel like our family to us, even if they were born far away and look completely different. This, I told her, is what it is like for me and your mom, so that is why you and your sister are like my family, too.

Her expression turned especially serious and thoughtful, but I don't think she quite understood. Later, though, when it was getting dark and Ilwaad turned to me and asked, "Can you stay here with us?" This made me think, I hope they learn what I meant by feeling.

In the afternoon, a woman named Yasmin was fetched to paint us all with henna in preparation for the Eid Moubarak celebrations coming up on Friday. First, she decorated my hands with scrolling curving vines and flowers, tipping the ends of my fingers with the thick chocolatey paste, squeezing delicate swirling lines onto my skin like a pastry chef icing the perfect cake. Then, I think Dekha gave up her turn so that I could also have my feet done to match, but I didn't know that at the time.

Dekha, a friend of Ladan's, sat with me on the floor as Yasmin traced graceful lines along the arches of my feet. I wished I had scrubbed off some of the dry skin and dirt they carried after a month of travel, but she did not seem to mind. Yasmin spoke softly to Dekha in Somali, and they began chatting. After a few minutes passed, Dekha turned to me to translate.

"She say you are a good person, she can see," Dekha told me. I think I actually blushed; I felt a quick flush of red creeping up my neck. After so many weeks of the never ending crassly sexual aggression of Ethiopian men, such a gentle and quiet compliment warmed and embarrassed me.

I looked at Yasmin, her orange scarf slipping away from her face, so focused on my feet, copying the spontaneous glistening design of my left onto my right. "Well, I'm not so sure about that," I said, "but thank you."

"You are open, she say, she can see this," Dekha continued. I looked at Yasmin and she glanced up at me, with the quick flash of a surreptitious smile. I smiled too. This space, full of women who were so warm and welcoming, felt like refuge afer the constant harassment of walking around in Ethiopia.

I sat on the floor with the girls long past when my hands and feet were dry enough to peel and wash the excess off, trying to help them both be patient and still long enough for their to dry properly, too. Then there was spicy chai, and after sunset, little red beans cooked with wheat kernels and drizzled with sesame oil.

Yasmin kept working well into the evening, as the neighbor and her kids came over to join in. Later, I rode along when Ladan drove her home; she slipped out of the car when we paused on the main road that was apparently close enough to where she lived back in the winding neighborhoods of small dirt paths and puddles. I waved, but she had already turned her head towards home.

today sucked

(FYI, the today of which I speak here was actually last Thursday - and it has been a bit smoother since then)

There is no way around it, today was a pain in my ass. Often, I write glowingly about being away, make even the things that are hard seem lined with silver because they have some hidden redeeming value embedded in human interaction or the taking apart of some false view or a deeper appreciation of places where the basics are not so easy. This is pretty much the way I usually feel about things, so mostly, it is fair enough. 

All of these things make today suck no less.

As background, let me just say that I honestly arrived in Ethiopia with no real plan. There were three places I wanted to visit, but other than that, I had refused to lock myself into any kind of schedule. I figured that with nearly four weeks for three places I could allow myself to just get pleasantly stalled somewhere and not feel like I had to move on.

So get stalled I did, in the first place I went outside of Addis - Bahar Dar, on the shores of Lake Tana. I chose a hotel that was, let's say, more than a bit worn, but that had a beautiful garden right on the lake where I could sit and read and drink proper coffee. For the first five or six days, I did one touristy thing per day, and otherwise slept in and read and generally hung out. I made a friend of the hotel manager; we'd sit together in the evenings and sip something, talk about Meles' passing and Obama's future and here v. there and the why of certain things. It was lovely. But after about a week, I figured I should move on to Gondar.

Turns out the moving on, even to the town that is only about three hours up the road, is not simple. Unless you fly. Which of course I felt some prideful, I-am-a-traveler-not-a-tourist BS about, much preferring to get on a bus or a minibus or a donkey cart or some other local mode of getting around. Besides, I did really want to see the between-here-and-there. Maybe not the back again, but, nonetheless.

I was supposed to leave Monday, in my mind, anyway. Then it was Tuesday. Wednesday for sure I had a minibus seat. Then today arrived. You can go at ten, the manager told me, no problem. Chigarelem, is what 'no problem' sounds like in Amharic. I have heard it a lot in the last two weeks.

I got picked up at half ten. Not bad, considering that the guy who was supposed to come yesterday never showed at all, and that half an hour 'late' falls officially within the 'on time' window that I give my students when we arrive to help adjust their sense of timing.

There were three of us in the minibus, and I admit, my surprise at the lack of passengers in a vehicle that could easily carry 11 (you know, meaning minimum 16 or 17 in Africa) should have been a harbinger of things to come. But I had been having such a nicely mellow time that I didn't even bother to overthink it.

Of course we did not set off for Gondar. We went to the bus station to try to fill the remaining seats. But the mission unravelled at lightning speed. As we turned the corner off the main road into the chaos near the gates clogged with minibuses and tuktuks and big buses and people and people and people, our driver started to yell at the young man who was 'helping' him. There are always two guys working the minibuses, one who drives and one who collects fares, opens and closes the door, helps with luggage, trills 'Gondar, Gondar,' out the window to try to drum up more riders, and so on. The kid seemed to have done a perfectly reasonable job so far, but not speaking Amharic of course meant I had no clue about what was actually happening. It escalated rapidly; when we stopped on a side road across from the station the two of them were out of the vehicle and screaming at each other; the driver slapped the younger man hard across the face and got back in, driving away as the young man chased, crying, tears streaking his face in the dust.

We stopped. They seemed to reconcile, sort of. But we still did not have enough passengers. No inch of ass space can ever go wasted here, this, I know. Turning down another side street, we suddenly started backing up. And backing up. And then came a loud and deep metallic boom as we struck something and jerked to a stop. It was a tuktuk, one of the little blue and white autorickshaws that buzz around the city, and fortunately no one was in it. We promptly took off at a speed that far overestimated our ability to navigate the goings on of market stalls and donkeys and cows and goats and pedestrians and more tuktuks.

But within a couple of minutes we were stopped again, as the apparent owner of the tuk caught up to us and pulled right across our front bumper, likely in hopes of preventing us from driving off again. Our driver got out. His people followed, as the tuk owner's backup had come with him. A crowd formed and argument ensued, with lots of arm swinging and posturing and probably cursing. At least one would hope there was cursing, because it was certainly called for in this moment.

The next thing I knew, we had a new driver. He was just learning, the other one, I was told, presumably because I occupied the coveted front seat (secured for me by my friend at the hotel) when the newbie climbed in.

We made the loop again, looking for more passengers, Gondar Gondar trailing out the window with the dust and my growing trepidation. We stopped, another minibus in front of us on another side street.  I thought about getting out and hopping a tuk back to the hotel, as two other folks who had boarded with me at the hotel went off to see if anyone else was leaving to Gondar and then came back. Turns out, the out part wasn't voluntary.

This one does not have enough people, we were told as we pulled up. We were all expected to transfer to the next minibus in front of us. I decided this was not the greatest idea ever conceived, and I refused. Hiring a driver with a short enough fuse to fight with his assistant and stupid enough to smash into a tuk and then drive away did not inspire much confidence in me. I had just sent a text to my friend back at the hotel, as we were already a full hour into our 'journey' to Gondar (and not three minutes from the hotel, I promise):

Still in town. Fight. Accident. New driver. Other people leaving.

He called me immediately. Where are you? Of course I could only vaguely say somewhere near the bus station. I'm coming now, stay there, he instructed. I laughed. He'd already hung up.

Strapped into my backpack, I walked back towards the bus station. But of course, I have not yet described what it is like to be a lone white girl with big boobs just out walking around; the big backpack just adds to the freakish sideshow nature of my presence. This is no simple saunter. Absolutely every asshole sporting a dick was ready to 'help' me, 'direct' me, carry my bag, show me the way without giving a crap as to what my way actually was. Freya Stark put this well when she wrote that receiving consideration as a woman traveling alone usually meant being obstructed from what you wanted to do.

I kept walking. After a few minutes I let one of the guys who was on the first minibus with me talk me onto another one that was 'full' and leaving for Gondar. Of course it was neither. We started driving around again and I gave up, demanding my bag back, standing in the way of the sliding door as we started to drive off again, as the two women now jammed into the front seat giggled hysterically. The driver stopped and my bag was retreived from the roof; I slung it back on and started to walk.

The next car that pulled up to me was a 4x4 from the hotel. The guy sitting in the front seat wordlessly handed me his cellphone. On the other end was my friend, urging me to just get in and come back to hotel. I did, gratefully.

When we pulled up to the veranda of the hotel, the two folks with whom I'd started out were already back. We all started to laugh. Ethioooopia, the young woman said, dragging the word out and pained in tone, they all just lie about everything. We chatted for a few more minutes and then they set back out for the bus station to try again. I wished them luck.

My friend and I sat on the veranda. It was suddenly just so cool and green, I thought I could just stay and not mind missing the sights. But he had already rearranged for me, knowing that I was ready to leave, and another minibus pulled up. But this is just the same as the last, I said, eyeing three occupants in a space built for more. No, no, I know this driver, he is good, and will go directly, my friend promised. I think I knew it wasn't true, and I suspect my friend did too, but I went anyway.

Back to the bus station we went, trolling for more passengers. This time, seats filled up quickly and quietly. The driver bailed, and another young man took his place. But we did leave town within about half an hour.

The drive itself was gorgeous, the countryside and hills and mountains verdant with grass and trees and teff and water lilies flourishing in the pools of water lingering at the roadsides. How could anyone ever starve in a place so lush, I wondered for the hundredth time, thinking of the scores of skeletal images I had seen from this place over the years. The politics were completely beside me and it seemed utterly impossible.

But of course, we kept stopping along the way, for reasons which were possibly explicable to everyone but me. We almost got clipped by a truck. We came to a roadblock consisting of an overturned semi truck that forced us to crawl past its rusting hulk in the grassy gravel to the side. We ground our way further up into the mountains, creeping past other minibuses and trucks and donkey carts and hoping that the driver could actually see far enough ahead to justify the straining of low gears to get by the latest obstruction just in time. A basket on the dashboard in front of me kept slowly sliding from side to side, carrying a postcard–sized image of the Virgin Mary and some fake flowers. She had better be full of grace, I thought to myself as we whipped past another pack of donkeys loaded down with bulging sacks of something and being chased by a boy with a cracking stick.

We came into the edges of what I thought must be Gondar, and nearly rammed into a horse drawn cart that squirted into our path at the last second. The guy at the reins appeared beyond clueless, eyes glazed over, yanking ineffectually on the strips of leather in his hands. Disaster was averted, but this did not stop our supermacho driver from pulling over in front of the cart to leap out, his backseat assistant beating him to the literal punch, swinging and yelling, as if somehow it was a shock that the car outpaced the horse or that the cart was on the road at all. It was the third fight of the day and I still could not help but think, really? The testosterone was so thick I half expected them to just whip out their penises to measure in comparison and get it over with. 

We drove over a bridge and past the Obama Pool House. I desperately wanted to take a picture of the sign only marginally less than I wanted to get out of that fucking minibus. Sliding up to an intersection, in view of nursing kids nuzzling their furry goat mothers underneath a dump truck parked at the roadside, our genius driver decided to pass the Toyota Hilux in front of us. Which was turning left. Making it that much more logical for us to pass him on the left. Just as he tried to turn.

He gave us the Ethiopian equivalent of the finger, which we richly deserved in any language. But once again, our brilliant jack wagon of a driver figured he was the one who had been wronged, pulled over, and leapt out to express his indignation. A crowd gathered. A fight boiled over. We all turned to watch out the back window. Idiots, I thought. But the irony of the repeated assholery of the day is that none of them seemed to have it in them to actually hurt anyone else.

We drove on to the university, where most of our passengers piled out. Just up the road, we slid to the side again, where I was foisted off on another minibus going further into town, despite the fact that I knew I was supposed to be dropped off at the hotel where I was to meet several others going up into the mountains. This was the point of my doneness.

Shucking off the 'help' of those guys standing around where I finally got out of the last minibus of the day, I found a place to stay, with the help of a friend of my friend who came looking for me where I was dropped off. Thanks to the almighty for our people, for sure, because without them I may well have yanked my hair out on the side of the road somewhere today. But somehow, with the apparent generosity of another guy who really wanted to get into my pants, I found myself in an odd little guesthouse with red and white walls up above a restaurant that made me a pizza and served me some wine. Granted, the pizza was made with cabbage and carrots but without cheese, but it was pizzaish nonetheless.

By the way, Ethiopian wine also sucks. The first one I had last week tasted like a shakeup of stale vinegar and cherry cough syrup. It did come in a beer bottle, so, there was that as a warning. The one in front of me right now is a bit better, I am ashamed to say, because it's more like pixie sticks dissolved in watermelon vodka with just a hint of salad dressing. Deeeeelicious.

lunch in debre markos

I had never before taken a bus trip to get from one place to another that involved a stop for lunch. But the second time we pulled onto the side of the road to stop, everyone piled out and into the nearby restaurants. The first time we stopped was for a pee break, which was not hard to figure out because, well, we were in the middle of nowhere and everyone split up by gender to turn their backs or look for a bush. But this time I was unsure of what to do, because all I really wanted was to eat last night's leftover pizza which I had brought along. However, with the throngs of people from the buses and passersby and boys selling gum and oranges and packet of tissues, it seemed impossible to just pull out food and start eating. So I stood for a moment somewhat stupidly and considered my options.

A couple sitting out in front of the nearest cafe gestured to me. I walked over; 'Join us, would you like to sit?' the man asked. 

'Thank you. But really what I'd like to do after the last six hours is stand,' I replied, smiling, sitting down anyway.  He smiled, she smiled. 'We are a bit foreign as well,' he said, acknowledging my awkwardness gently. 'We are from Germany,' he added. They were Ethiopian by ethnicity, but German by residency, he explained. His wife was a nurse, working in a hospital not far from Frankfurt.

We talked about how terrible the road was, what our travel plans were, a bit about Botswana in comparison. When their 'tibs' (bits of roasted meat sizzling in a clay pot) and injera arrived, they asked if I wanted to try. I begged vegetarian, and excused myself, hoping I was not being too rude. They did not seem offended.

I walked off the main road a little ways, skeptically marveling at the signs for computer stores with banners proclaiming access to Gmail and Yahoo and Skype. There were also lots of corrugated tin shops selling fruit and cigarettes and bottles of water. The sides of road were russet mud, separated from chunks of tar by ditches full of garbage that seemed poised to overflow and retake the narrow rough strip of asphalt that passed for a highway.

It started to rain. After the dry of the last five months in Botswana, I did not mind. But then it started to pour. I ducked under an overhang in front of another computer shop to wait.

A small boy darted up from my right, slightly behind me as if he had not quite decided that he wanted me to see him. I waited for him to ask me for something, as nearly every other child who had come up to me in the last few days had. The poverty here is grinding, pervasive, filling space like smoke, worse than anything I have seen elsewhere in Africa and honestly, from my limited experience, in India too. So I waited to be asked for something, with that mix of dread and guilt and compassion and anger that simmers when I want to help, but remain at a loss of really knowing what to do, and it never gets any easier.

But he didn't ask. He didn't make a sound. He just stood at the perfect edge of my field of view, looking at me. He was perhaps five years old, wearing a dirt-patterned tan sweater and navy track pants with stripes of red and white down each leg, neither of which were really red or white any more. His expression was plaintive, perhaps the most direct look I have ever been given by someone I did not already know - reaching but not pleading, curious but not intrusive, open but not completely unafraid.

I was still hoping to eat my leftovers, but I knew there was no way I could do it in front of him. I'd share, I thought. Then I wondered what the odds were that the child had ever seen pizza, despite its being everywhere in Ethiopia like a weirdly delicious leftover of the Italian Fascist occupation, or if the rich cheese might make him sick if he did eat it, dairy not being a usual part of Ethiopian food in general and much less that of a kid on the street.

Instead, I reached into my bag for a granola bar. I smiled, leaning forward to hand it to him, a peanut butter pretzel, one of my favorites and I hoped, a flavor he would like. He accepted it gravely, and carefully tore at the plastic, ripping it open just enough to start eating as he perched on the concrete lip at the base of the storefront. The bar looked huge in his tiny hands, and he ate deliberately, not ravenously as I had thought he might or protectively to hide what he had - just like he was appreciating something precious and not taking a single mouthful for granted. I took out my slice of pizza and we ate together, just barely out of the downpour, chewing slowly as the sound of the water drowned all other noise into the background.

Suddenly the boy shouted, pointing at my feet. Water was swirling around my right shoe, backflow from the rain that cascaded down the side of the building. I grinned and stepped closer to him, out of the growing puddle. He triumphantly finally managed to remove the entire wrapper from the bar, and flung the crackly plastic maybe three feet out in front of him onto the dirt-wet concrete with relish.

A few minutes passed, and another boy approached us, this one perhaps ten or eleven years old, carrying a bundle of branches with neat-cut ends and waxy dark green leaves. This was chat, a mildly narcotic leaf that is a huge part of the Ethiopian economy even as it is illegal in most surrounding countries. It is meant to be chewed slowly, tucked into one's cheek and then turned over and over in the mouth to release a high that is said to be best experienced with others while sitting around talking. 

The boy looked at me and brought his fingers to his mouth; I brought out another granola bar and extended it to him. He looked puzzled, unsure of what I was offering. The little boy saw his hesitation and immediately piped up from below, apparently telling the older one in no uncertain terms that he should take it - which he did, tucking it safely into his shirt pocket. He looked at me again, still rather grave but with some of the serious worn off, and then he reached into his bundle of branches, wrapping his narrow fingers around a single stem and starting to pull. It was a trade, I realized. He wanted to give me something in return.

I put my hand out to stop him and shook my head; 'It's ok,' I said, knowing he would not understand the words but figuring he would understand what I meant. He nodded and walked back out into the rain.

I stood there a few more minutes, and the rain let up a bit. I heard a bus horn and figured I had better go back, not sure if it was my bus but not wanting to find out the hard way. I turned to the little boy, still sitting on the concrete, and I smiled. His face burst into a grin for the first time, beaming at me in the rain, still carefully chewing little bites of peanut butter pretzel. I waved. He waved. And back to the bus I went, dodging red rivulets pouring down the road and climbing back up into the bus - the last one to come back from lunch.